Ashes to Fashion: Ulster Museum exhibition will celebrate a collection reborn

A devastating fire at Malone House, caused by two firebombs planted during the Troubles in 1976, completely destroyed the Ulster Museum’s entire costume and textile collection. The tragic incident has become the starting point for a major new exhibition opening at the museum on 27 February. 

Ashes to Fashion is set to become a cultural moment for Ulster Museum, Northern Ireland and the fashion world, as it reveals a fashion and textiles collection reborn after 50 years of dedicated collecting. It is an up close and personal look at the expertise and resilience involved in rebuilding a collection from scratch. It brings together five centuries of historic and contemporary garments and textiles, a collection that has been lovingly rebuilt through thoughtful curation, acquisition, generous donations and bequests.

The exhibition tells a powerful story of destruction, resilience and creativity. It explores the emotional and cultural impact of the loss, the 50-year recovery process that followed, and the wider significance of fashion as a record of identity, cultural credibility and craftsmanship. 

The original collection held centuries of design and social history; objects that documented how people dressed and expressed their individuality. 

Charlotte McReynolds, Curator of Art at National Museums NI, explained that rather than focusing solely on what was lost, Ashes to Fashion allows the museum to tell the story of what happened next. She said, 

“The 1976 fire destroyed around 10,000 items in the original collection, with garments affected by flames, smoke, heat and water. For curators, conservators and the wider museum team, the incident represented profound cultural loss. Now, fifty years on, it has become an opportunity to reflect on our resilience. 

“The exhibition traces the journey from disaster to recovery, revealing the meticulous work undertaken by a succession of curators, beginning with Elizabeth McCrum, to rebuild a new collection from scratch. Ashes to Fashion reframes fashion. It positions textiles as significant cultural objects that carry stories, emotions and history, which can be both fragile and enduring."

The exhibition is a must-visit experience for fashion lovers and social history enthusiasts alike, with approximately 120 objects on display. 

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One of the exhibition’s highlights is the Lennox Quilt – the only surviving item from the original collection. Measuring six feet by six feet and entirely handstitched, the quilt was made in 1712 by Martha Lennox, the daughter of John Hamilton, one of the first sovereigns, or mayors, of Belfast. It was successfully purchased at auction by the Ulster Museum in March 1976. It could so easily have been lost with the other 10,000 objects in Malone House, but luckily, it was on display at the Ulster Museum at the time. 

The earliest object on display will be a rare stumpwork embroidery casket from the 1660s, generously donated to the museum in 2025 by renowned needlework expert, Lanto Synge. 

Fashion highlights that will be on show will include exquisite silk gowns from the 18^th century, juxtaposed with modern pieces including a Chanel Haute Couture suit worn by supermodel Christie Turlington. 

A range of international and local designers will be on display for the first time ever, including pieces by Northern Ireland-born Jonathan Anderson, as well as Elie Saab, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Christopher Kane and Kindred of Ireland.

Kathryn Thomson, Chief Executive of National Museums NI, said the exhibition is an opportunity to transform people’s perceptions of museums, as people will connect with the Ulster Museum in a new way, hearing this story. She explained, 

“Ashes to Fashion is an honest and powerful response to a devastating moment in our history. It acknowledges what was lost, whilst celebrating the extraordinary expertise involved in rebuilding it. It demonstrates how creativity and resilience can emerge from even the most devastating circumstances.

“At the heart of the exhibition is a commitment to transparency and reflection. Visitors are given rare insight into the behind-the-scenes realities of museum collecting and conservation. Resilience and constant renewal are markers of the fashion world, and now also of the Ulster Museum’s own reborn fashion collection. We are immensely proud to put on this exhibition, our first major fashion exhibition in 15 years, and look forward to welcoming new audiences to experience the Ulster Museum through the lens of fashion and design.”

Various public talks and workshops in partnership with Ulster University will take place whilst the exhibition runs, allowing students, designers and the public to connect with Ashes to Fashion beyond the gallery.

Final preparations are underway on the Ashes to Fashion exhibition ahead of its opening at the Ulster Museum on 27 February.  A ticketed exhibition, booking can be made in advance here.