Ashes to Fashion exhibition opens

After months of anticipation, the Ulster Museum has officially opened Ashes to Fashion, its first major fashion and textile exhibition in 15 years. Among the highlights is a striking piece by Northern Ireland–born designer Jonathan Anderson, created for Spanish fashion house Loewe. The piece – a ‘pixelated’ hoodie and jeans outfit, described by Anderson as ‘visual glitches’ in the real world - was acquired by the museum in 2023 from Loewe’s Spring/Summer collection and now forms a key feature within this landmark show.

The opening of Ashes to Fashion has been widely awaited as a defining cultural moment for Northern Ireland, marking 50 years since the devastating 1976 Malone House fire that destroyed almost the entirety of the museum’s original fashion and textile collection. The exhibition charts the remarkable story of how the collection was rebuilt from near‑total loss. Among those attending the opening were Jonathan Anderson’s parents and the Lord Mayor of Belfast, who joined former curators of the costume and textile collection at the time of the fire, museum staff, volunteers and members of the fashion, design and social history communities to celebrate this milestone.

The fire, caused by two firebombs planted during the Troubles, destroyed around 10,000 garments and textiles, leaving the museum facing an almost unimaginable cultural void. The exhibition presents approximately 120 objects spanning five centuries, from the reborn collection, reflecting decades of meticulous collecting, conservation and curatorial vision.

Charlotte McReynolds, Curator of Art at National Museums NI, said: 

“Ashes to Fashion is a testament to resilience and renewal. The 1976 fire represented a profound cultural loss, but it also sparked fifty years of extraordinary work by a succession of curators, beginning with Elizabeth McCrum, conservators and other museum staff. This exhibition allows us to share not only what was rebuilt, but how - and to celebrate the people, ideas and creativity that shaped the new collection. 

“The inclusion of contemporary Northern Irish designers in this moment, like Jonathan Anderson and Hope Macaulay, for example, highlights the strength and imagination of our homegrown designers. Macaulay’s piece can be enjoyed by visitors to our new ‘Discover Fashion’ interactive area on the fifth floor. Seeing their work represented, in the place where their stories began, is a powerful reminder of fashion’s ability to connect identity, place and innovation.”

One of the very first items visitors will encounter is the Lennox Quilt – the sole surviving object from the original collection – alongside a rare stumpwork embroidery casket from the 1660s, generously donated in 2025 by renowned needlework expert Lanto Synge. Historic 18th‑century silk gowns are displayed in dialogue with modern couture, including a Chanel Haute Couture suit worn by Christie Turlington, as well as pieces by Elie Saab, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Christopher Kane and Kindred of Ireland. Together, these works reveal the breadth and ambition of a collection rebuilt with care, expertise and imagination.

Elizabeth McCrum, former Curator of Applied Art at the time the collection was lost to the fire, whose pioneering collecting strategy - still in place to this day - laid the foundations for the rebuilt collection, added: 

“Rebuilding after the fire required careful thought about the direction of the new collection. It is deeply rewarding to see how it has flourished.”

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At the heart of the exhibition is a commitment to transparency and reflection, offering visitors rare insight into the behind‑the‑scenes of museum collecting and conservation. Various public talks and workshops, delivered in partnership with Ulster University, will run throughout the exhibition, including an exciting initiative with the Fashion and Textile students creating pieces inspired by the exhibition for their end-of-year fashion show in May. The museum curator will then choose items to temporarily go on display at the museum during the summer, allowing students, designers and the public to engage with Ashes to Fashion beyond the gallery.

A publication accompanies Ashes to Fashion, featuring 50 highlights from the collection, all illustrated with exquisite photography, alongside text delving into the behind-the-scenes story of rebuilding from scratch.